Anchovy Butter

If you’ve never cooked with anchovies, the place to begin is with butter.

Anchovy butter is a recipe that makes a good companion for life.  It takes about five minutes to assemble, once you soften the butter.  Once the butter softened to the waxy point, where you can press the tines of a fork into it, mash in the anchovies alone, or with a little minced shallot, chopped mint or basil; lemon zest; and a touch of Worcestershire sauce.  It’s pretty forgiving, but one thing should be clear:  It should be either a full-on anchovy-with-a-capital-A butter, or a compound butter merely scented with anchovy.  Spread it on toast, and top it with a slice of radish.  Grill steaks and let a knob of the anchovy butter melt over them as you carry them to the table.  Blanch green beans and while the beans are hot, roll them in the butter.  Do the same with carrots.  Dab it on monkfish, then roast it in a hot oven.